Goose-Fat Onion Jam

Just a schmear of this rich spread will go a long way.

This easy, cheap savory jam is a sure-fire way to elevate meat and potatoes

In the winter, the French comfort themselves with a bowl of hot onion soup. Being the foreigner that I am, I go for a spoonful of hot onion jam.

In the kitchen, I spend so much time trying to make onions soft like jam. Whether it’s a long braise in wine with a hunk of meat or dropped in oil and fat for a confit, I want them to come out of the oven ready to explode under the pressure of a fork. And this is what inspired me to actually just take onions and turn them into jam.

I melt down onions all day on a low heat with goose fat, a splash of white wine, crushed peppercorns, a touch of salt and a bunch of bay leaves. Sometimes I add star anis to also counter balance the flavor of the onions, but this is optional—the acid of the white wine should do a good enough job. After cooking all day, it’s velvety and the flavor is earthy and peppery. The goose fat adds a richness that’s both a little bit fruity and nutty.

This spread goes well with potato latkes, roasted potatoes or red meat like brisket and short ribs: food that naturally pairs with onions. A tiny dollop goes a long way to elevate a main dish. If not for dinner, serve it on thin slices of crusty bread like baguette as an apéro with a crisp white wine.

The jam can also be done with shallots instead of onions (or even a mix), and I find that shallots are a bit lighter. However, I recommend doing this in late summer or early autumn when shallots are in their peak season.

So take your onions and make soup, my French friends: I’ll have mine melted down in wine and profuse with goose fat.

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Serving: 6-10 people

Ingredients:
6 yellow onions, quartered
4 bay leaves
4 anis stars (optional)
Handful of peppercorns, crushed
2 tsp salt
2 tbs goose fat (add 1/2 tbs if you want it extra rich)
1/4 cup white wine

Preparation:

1. Add all ingredients to a small Dutch oven (metal pot is possible, but I try to avoid it because it heats up very quickly—I don’t want the bottom to burn—and that’s why I prefer cast iron).

2. Place on lowest stove-top heat for 8 hours, mixing occasionally. If using metal pot, make sure to check more frequently.

3. Mix well, salt and pepper to taste. Store extra in jars in fridge for up to two weeks.